Showing posts with label free pattern. Show all posts
Showing posts with label free pattern. Show all posts

Friday, September 13, 2013

How to Knit Argyle Socks in the Round


*Want the pattern for the socks pictured here?  Click here to purchase* 

Traditionally, the leg of an argyle sock is knit flat.  Once the leg has been knit it is seamed up the back, and the rest of the sock is knit in the round. 

This is fine for the un-ambitious.

Personally, I prefer to knit anything I can in one piece.  I think that’s knitting’s biggest sculptural advantage—one can knit a fully shaped, one piece garment without any cutting or sewing.  Add to that the fact that store-bought argyle socks are seamless, and perhaps you can see why, when I learned that argyles “need” to be seamed, I took that as a challenge.

I’ve played with a few different ways to knit argyle in the round over the years.  I came up with each on my own, although I’m sure that lots of other knitters have come to the same solutions on their own over the years.  I’ve settled on what I think is the most successful method.  That’s what I’m sharing here.
These instructions are written with the assumption that you are familiar with and have knit a basic sock.
First, take a look at an argyle sock.  There are usually diamonds in 2 different colors, with a third color making the x’s that run through the diamonds.  This pair has blue diamonds which will be on the sides of the sock and green diamonds, while will be the front and back of the sock.  The diamonds interlock, so that the blue diamond makes up the negative space around the green, and vice versa.

To figure out where you are at each step of these instructions, on each row you work, you’ll need to keep in mind which color of diamonds is growing, and which is shrinking.  We’ll start where the green diamonds are growing, and the blue are shrinking.  By the way, I HIGHLY recommend winding your diamond colors onto bobbins, whether you knit your argyles in the round, or traditionally flat.  Either way bobbins greatly lessen the amount of tangling, and therefore frustration, with any kind of intarsia knitting.

 Argyle 1

But that’s jumping ahead just a bit.  To start the sock, cast on the number of stitches you like to cast on for a sock.  A multiple of 4 is ideal.  The example sock is knit on 60sts at a gauge of 8sts per inch.  Work 2x2 ribbing for about an inch in your main (background) color.

Set up row:  you’re beginning in the middle of the green diamonds, which is at the point of the blue diamonds.  Add in 2 different green bobbins, and 2 white bobbins for the x’s.  Also add a second ball, or bobbin of blue.  Divide your total number of stitches by 4 to get x.  Knit 1 blue stitch, then continue knitting in green until you’ve counted to x.  Start counting again, but this time the first stitch is a white cross stitch, then the rest of the green bobbin until you’ve counted to x again.  For the second half of the sock, you’ll do the same thing, but this time you’ll start back at the beginning of the row and purl across the inside.  Using the second balls of each color, p x-1 green, p1 white, p x-1 green, p1 blue, and you will have met your other half of the cast on, half way around the sock.   On our 60st example sock this means:  k1 blue, k14 green, k1 white, k14 green.  Start 2ndball of blue, p1 blue, start 2nd bobbin of green, p14 green, start second bobbin of white, p1 white, p14 green.  End of row.  Arrange your stitches across 4 needles, one for each diamond.  So at the moment, each blue stitch is on its own needle.  You’ll use a fifth needle as the working needle.

 Argyle 2

The arrows show the direction each green diamond was worked.  One was knit, the other purled.
At this point, both green strands of yarn are at the same end of the sock.  At that end, shift the last green stitch on each needle onto the needle with the one blue stitch.

 Argyle 3

Knit those 3 sts in blue, being sure to wrap the blue yarn with the green before and after you knit 3.  i.e. wrap, knit 3, wrap. 

 Argyle 4

*VERY IMPORTANT* You will always have the yarn ends of the “shrinking” diamonds right next to whichever “growing” diamond you are working on.  This is so that you can wrap the ends around each other in proper intarsia fashion at each edge of the growing diamond to prevent holes.  If this is not a familiar process, please look up intarsia knitting in you knitting books or online.  You need to wrap your ends whether you work your argyle socks in the round or flat.  This is what those wraps will eventually look like on the inside of your sock.

 Argyle 12

Now work across each green diamond to the other side of the sock.  You’ll knit across one diamond, and purl across the other, so as to keep the outside of the sock in stocking stitch.  In both cases, stop one stitch shy of the end of the needle.  You’ll also add the last 2 bobbins of white (4 total) on this row.  Remember that the white stitches each move by one stitch on every row.  If this makes you crazy and is just one too many things to keep track of, feel free to leave them out and add them with duplicate stitch after your sock is finished.

 Argyle 5

Slip each of those un-worked green stitches onto the needle with the blue stitch.

 Argyle 6

Purl these three stitches in blue.  Remember to wrap your ends.

 Argyle 7

Slip one more green from each green needle onto the blue needle you are working on.

Argyle 8

Turn and knit these 5 sts.  Remember to wrap your ends. 
You have worked 2 rows on the growing blue diamond, as indicated by the arrow.

 Argyle 9

Now you’ve established your pattern.  Here’s the whole thing in sequence.

1.       Work both shrinking green diamonds back to the other side of the sock.  Purl one, Knit the other, keeping the outside of the sock in stocking stitch.  Do not work the last stitch on each green diamond needle, instead, slip them to the needle holding the growing blue diamond.

Argyle 10

2.   Purl the stitches on the blue needle, slip another green from each needle, turn, and work across again.  Remember to wrap your ends.  I’m going to stop writing that now, but you should keep doing it at every boundary between colors.  You’ve now gone back and forth on the blue needle.

 Argyle 11

That’s it.  You’re now ready to work back across the shrinking green diamonds, and do the same thing on the other side. 

In general, you always work across both shrinking diamonds to bring them to one side of the sock, leave the end stitches, then work back and forth on the growing diamond, knitting the left behind stitches on the first pass, and the slipping two new stitches to the growing diamond’s needle to work on the second pass.
Keep doing this until the growing diamonds have grown across the whole sock.  There will be one row with only blue and white stitches, no green.  At this point everything shifts.  The green diamonds start growing from one stitch, and the blue diamonds become the shrinking diamonds.  Start over again with the instructions just after the set up row, but this time with the colors reversed.  Once the blue diamonds shrink down to just one stitch, you’re back to the beginning.  Continue like this until you’re ready to do the heal, at which point your sock can easily become a simple sock, knit out of just your back ground color all the way to the toe.  You could also do a contrast heal and toe.  It’s your sock—do what pleases you.

If, once you’ve tried this, the whole thing makes you want to throw your project across the room, don’t torture yourself.  Go back to knitting your argyles in the tried and true flat method.

*Want the pattern for the socks pictured here?  Click here to purchase* 

Friday, March 28, 2008

Buffalo Guys' Diamond Socks–The Well Explained Wordy Pattern

This pattern is long, but carefully explained for knitters who have not knit many socks yet. If you are an experienced sock knitter, you may want to use the short form.

Sized to fit ankles 9 ½-10, (10 ½-11) inches in circumference
Lengths given for men’s shoe sizes 6-14


Gauge: 9 sts per inch


Needles: 1 set of double points in correct size to obtain gauge. (I used zeros, I knit loose. Do a swatch, it’ll make things go better for you later, honest.)


Instructions:
Cast on 72 (80) sts. (If you know how, cast on in ribbing for 2x2 rib. If you don’t know how, don’t worry, any stretchy cast on you already know will be fine.)
Divide onto 3 needles, place a marker for the beginning of the round, and join, being careful not to twist.

R 1: k2, p2, repeat around.

R 2-20: continue in 2x2 rib (i.e. repeat round 1)

R 21: reset stitch counter or brain to round 1, this is the beginning of the diamond pattern.


Diamond pattern for leg:

R 1: p1, k3, p1, k3, repeat around

R 2: p1, k3, p1, k3, repeat around

R 3: k3,*[ p1, k1, p1, k5] repeat from star around, ending p1, k1, p1, k2

R 4: k3,*[ p1, k1, p1, k5] repeat from star around, ending p1, k1, p1, k2
R 5: k2, *[p1, k3, p1, k3] repeat from star around, ending p1, k3, p1, k1

R 6: k2, *[p1, k3, p1, k3] repeat from star around, ending p1, k3, p1, k1

R 7: k1, *[p1, k5, p1, k1] repeat from star around, ending p1, k5, p1

R 8: k1, *[p1, k5, p1, k1] repeat from star around, ending p1, k5, p1

R 9: p1, k3, p1, k3, repeat around

R 10: p1, k3, p1, k3, repeat around

R 11: k1, *[p1, k5, p1, k1] repeat from star around, ending p1, k5, p1

R 12: k1, *[p1, k5, p1, k1] repeat from star around, ending p1, k5, p1

R 13: k2, *[p1, k3, p1, k3] repeat from star around, ending p1, k3, p1, k1

R 14: k2, *[p1, k3, p1, k3] repeat from star around, ending p1, k3, p1, k1

R 15: k3,*[ p1, k1, p1, k5] repeat from star around, ending p1, k1, p1, k2

R 16: k3,*[ p1, k1, p1, k5] repeat from star around, ending p1, k1, p1, k2



Continue knitting in this pattern until 4 ½ diamonds have been knit down the back of the sock leg (i.e. directly in line with your beginning of round stitch marker). End with round 10. Then begin the heel flap.

Heel flap:

R 1: Knit 18 (20) sts, then turn

R 2: sl 1, Purl 35 (39) sts, turn.


At this point, arrange the stitches you’ve just worked on one dpn, and the remaining stitches on another dpn. Leave these unworked stitches alone while you knit the heel. They will become the instep stitches. In fact, if you can, cap the ends of that needle, or fit a holder over it, so you don’t lose the instep stitches when pulling your work out of your knitting bag. I speak from experience.
Continuing on the heel sts:

R 3: [sl 1, k1] across heel sts

R 4: sl 1, p across heel sts

repeat rows 3 and 4 until you have 17 (19) slipped stitches along each edge of the heel flap.
Reset stitch counter or brain to row 1. Begin turning the heel.


Turning the Heel:
R 1: sl 1, k 19(21) sts, ssk, k1, turn.

(If you have never knit a sock before, you may be questioning this step, as there are still unknit stitches on the needle, this is correct, and although it is hard, go ahead and turn, and follow the heel turning directions line by line, and all should be well. If not, there are some very nice illustrated books on sock knitting that can help you with diagrams and explanation. I highly recommend Nancy Bush’s Folk Socks.)

R 2: sl 1, p 5, p2 tog, p1, turn

R 3: sl 1, k 6, ssk, k1, turn
R 4: sl 1, p 7, p2 tog, p1, turn

R 5: sl 1, k 8, ssk, k1, turn


(At this point you may have noticed that when you either p2 tog or ssk, you are doing so “across the gap.” You are welcome to continue each row by working to the gap, ssk or p2 tog, and then k1 or p1. If that doesn’t work for you, continue following the directions line by line. Either way you’ll end up in the same place.)


R 6: sl 1, p 9, p2 tog, p1, turn

R 7: sl 1, k 10, ssk, k1, turn
R 8: sl 1, p 11, p2 tog, p1, turn

R 9: sl 1, k 12, ssk, k1, turn

R 10: sl 1, p 13, p2 tog, p1, turn

R 11: sl 1, k 14, ssk, k1, turn

R 12: sl 1, p 15, p2 tog, p1, turn
R 13: sl 1, k 16, ssk, k1, turn
R 14: sl 1, p 17, p2 tog, p1, turn


smaller size only:

R 15: sl 1, k 18, ssk, turn

R 16: sl 1, p 18, p2 tog, turn

R 17: sl 1, k19 DO NOT TURN


larger size only:

R 15: sl 1, k 18, ssk, k1, turn

R 16: sl 1, p 19, p2 tog, p1, turn

R 17: sl 1, k 20, ssk, k1, turn

R 18: sl 1, p 21, p2 tog, p1, turn

R 19: sl 1, k 23 DO NOT TURN


Pick Up For the Gusset:

Divide your heel sts between 2 needles. The beginning of your round is now between these 2 needles. Think of these as needles 4 and 1.
Along the edge of the heel flap using needle 1, pick up and knit the back loop of the 18 (20) edge stitches. Now reach down to the row below the last stitch picked up, and pick up that stitch too. This prevents the small hole that would have otherwise formed at the corner of your heel flap. Using a free needle, which will become needle 2, knit across the 18 (20) instep sts, continuing in the diamond pattern (round 11). Using a free needle, which will become needle 3, pick up and knit 19 (20) sts along the other side of the heel flap, beginning with the “extra” stitch from 1 row below. After picking up the stitches, still using needle 3, knit across the 10 (12) sts on needle 4. You now have all your sts arranged on 3 needles, leaving the 4th as your working needle.

That was just one round. Whew!

Gusset decreases:

Again, reset stitch counter or mind to round 1

R 1: k across needle 1, continue diamond pattern across needle 2, knit across needle 3

R 2: Needle 1: k to last 3 sts, k2 tog, k1.
Needle 2: Continue diamond pattern
Needle 3: k1, ssk, k to end of needle.


Continue alternating between rounds 1 and 2 until you have decreased back to the original 72 (80) sts.
Continue down the foot, knitting all the sts on needles 1 and 3, and continuing the diamond pattern on needle #2.

When the foot is 2" shorter than its finished length begin the toe decreases. If you aren’t making these for yourself, or haven’t been able to measure the recipient’s foot, here’s a pretty good idea of men's foot lengths based on shoe size:


Toe decrease:
Reset stitch counter, or brain, to round 1.

R 1: Needle 1: k to last 3 sts, k2 tog, k1.
Needle 2: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2 tog, k1.
Needle 3: k1, ssk, k to end of needle.

R 2: k (Yes, you’re done with the diamonds now.)


Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until there are 36 (40) sts total.


Repeat round 1 until there are 16 sts total.

Knit across needle 1 and break yarn, leaving a 12" tail.
Use kitchener stitch to graft the remaining sts together.
Work in ends, and block.





Buffalo Guys' Diamond Socks–The Short Form

This pattern is brief, for the experienced sock knitter who just wants the stitch pattern and a few useful numbers. If you have not knit very many socks, you may want to use the Well Explained pattern.

Sized to fit ankles 9 ½-10, (10 ½-11) inches in circumference
Lengths given for men’s shoe sizes 6-14

Gauge: 9 sts per inch

Needles: 1 set of double points in correct size to obtain gauge. (I used zeros, I knit loose. Do a swatch, it’ll make things go better for you later, honest.)


Instructions:

Cast on 72 (80)sts.
(If you know how, cast on in ribbing for 2x2 rib. If you don’t know how, don’t worry, any stretchy cast on you already know will be fine.)

Rib for 20 rounds.

Begin diamond pattern:
R 1: p1, k3, p1, k3, repeat around
R 2: p1, k3, p1, k3, repeat around
R 3: k3,*[ p1, k1, p1, k5] repeat from star around, ending p1, k1, p1, k2
R 4: k3,*[ p1, k1, p1, k5] repeat from star around, ending p1, k1, p1, k2
R 5: k2, *[p1, k3, p1, k3] repeat from star around, ending p1, k3, p1, k1
R 6: k2, *[p1, k3, p1, k3] repeat from star around, ending p1, k3, p1, k1
R 7: k1, *[p1, k5, p1, k1] repeat from star around, ending p1, k5, p1
R 8: k1, *[p1, k5, p1, k1] repeat from star around, ending p1, k5, p1
R 9: p1, k3, p1, k3, repeat around
R 10: p1, k3, p1, k3, repeat around
R 11: k1, *[p1, k5, p1, k1] repeat from star around, ending p1, k5, p1
R 12: k1, *[p1, k5, p1, k1] repeat from star around, ending p1, k5, p1
R 13: k2, *[p1, k3, p1, k3] repeat from star around, ending p1, k3, p1, k1
R 14: k2, *[p1, k3, p1, k3] repeat from star around, ending p1, k3, p1, k1
R 15: k3,*[ p1, k1, p1, k5] repeat from star around, ending p1, k1, p1, k2
R 16: k3,*[ p1, k1, p1, k5] repeat from star around, ending p1, k1, p1, k2


Continue knitting in this pattern until 4 ½ diamonds have been knit down the back of the sock leg (i.e. directly in line with your beginning of round stitch marker). End with round 10. Then begin the heel flap.

Heel flap:
worked over half the sts
R 1: Knit 18 (20) sts, then turn
R 2: sl 1, Purl 35 (39) sts, turn.
R 3: [sl 1, k1] across heel sts
R 4: sl 1, p across heel sts
repeat rows 3 and 4 until you have 17 (19) slipped stitches along each edge of the heel flap. Reset stitch counter or brain to row 1. Begin turning the heel.

Turning the heel:
R 1: sl 1, k 19(21) sts, ssk, k1, turn.
R 2: sl 1, p 5, p2 tog, p1, turn
continue working in this manner: sl the first st, work two together across the gap, work one more stitch, then turn

Continue until all heel sts have been knit.

Pick Up For the Gusset:
With needle #1 pick up and knit the 18 (20) slipped sts along the edge of the heel flap. Now reach down to the row below the last stitch picked up, and pick up that stitch too. This prevents the small hole that would have otherwise formed at the corner of your heel flap.

Continue working the diamond pattern (round 11) across the instep sts on needle #2. With needle #3, pick up and knit 19 (21) sts along the other side of the heel flap (including the “extra” to prevent a hole) and then continue across half of the heel sts. Slip the remaining heel sts to the beginning of needle #1.

Decrease
Gusset :
Next round, k across needle 1, continue in the diamond pattern across needle 2, k across needle 3.

Decrease round:
Needle 1: k to last 3 sts, k2 tog, k1
needle 2: continue in the diamond pattern
needle 3: k1, ssk, k to end.

Alternate between the plain round and the decrease round until you are back to 72 (80) sts total, working the bottom of the foot in plain stockinette and continuing the diamond pattern over the top of the foot.

When the foot is 2" shorter than the desired length begin the toe decreases. If you aren’t making these for yourself, or haven’t been able to measure the recipient’s foot, here’s a pretty good idea of men's foot lengths based on shoe size:


Toe decrease:
Reset stitch counter, or brain, to round 1.
R 1: Needle 1: k to last 3 sts, k2 tog, k1.
Needle 2: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2 tog, k1.
Needle 3: k1, ssk, k to end of needle.
R 2: k (Yes, you’re done with the diamonds now.)

Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until there are 36 (40) sts total.

Repeat round 1 until there are 16 sts total.
Knit across needle 1 and break yarn, leaving a 12" tail.
Use kitchener stitch to graft the remaining sts together.
Work in ends, and block.



Sunday, November 18, 2007

Free Watch Cap Hat Pattern

I'm also posting this on Ravelry, but since not everyone is on it yet, here's a free hat pattern for the whole internet to enjoy. I try to do some charity knitting every year. From what I observed in my old guild and elsewhere, most charity knitting tends to be colorful and sized for small children. Some of the organizations that the knitting was donated to actually requested plain black hats for their male clients. So since nothing is worse than looking like you're wearing a charity hat, I present a pattern for a good warm charity hat that doesn't look like a charity hat, and can be worn by an adult man without embarrassment.

Charity Watch Cap by Erica Fire
Knit in the round in brioche stitch with 2 strands of superwash yarn held together. Having walked to work in Buffalo the past 3 winters, I can attest to wool being way warmer than acrylic, and given the circumstances many charity knitting recipients are in, machine washable is much more practical than expecting a single mom to hand wash all her kids' hats and mittens, or a man in a boarding house to find a sink to handwash in.

Yarn: knit holding 2 strands together of a good superwash wool. I've used lambspride super wash, Cleckheaton Country 8 ply, or Classic Elite's superwash. Use 3 balls.

Needles: size 8 16" circular needles and size 8 double point needles.

Gauge:
3 3/4 sts per inch in stockinette on size 8 needles, or size needed to obtain gauge. Be sure to check your gauge--I knit loose!

Sizing: small to fit head size 20 to 21 1/2. medium to fit head size 21 1/2 to 22 1/2. large to fit head size 22 1/2 to 24

Pattern Stitch:

Round 1: *p1, yo, sl 1 pwise wyib, rep from *.
Round 2: *yo, sl1 pwise wyib, k2 tog, rep from *
Round 3: *p2 tog, yo, sl1 pwise wyib, rep from *
Round 4: * yo, sl 1 pwise wyib, k2tog, rep from *
repeat rounds 3 & 4 for the rest of the piece.


*note As you get the hang of knitting brioche stitch you'll find that you can make the yarn over and the slip one immediately after it in one movement. You'll also find that knitting or purling these two together can be done in basically one movement. After a few rows, brioche becomes a fairly fast and easy stitch to knit.


Pattern: For s (m, l)
Cast on 52 (54, 56) sts. Join, being careful not to twist. Knit in pattern until hat measures 9-9 1/2 inches long. End after completing a round 4. Remember that you only knit rounds 1 and 2 after the cast on, and knit the rest of the piece alternating rounds 3 and 4.

Once hat is 9 -9 1/2" long (depending on how deep you'd like the turn up) begin decrease rounds after completing round 4.

Dec Round 1: *p2tog, k1, rep from * around.
round 2: *p1, k1 rep from * around
rounds 3-5: continue in p1, k1 rib
round 6: *p3 tog, k1, rep from * End p3 tog, k1 ([p1, k1], [p3 tog, k1])
(switch to dpn's when there are too few stitches to comfortably fit around circular needle.)
rounds 7-8: continue in p1, k1 rib
round 9:
*p3 tog, k1, rep from * End p1, k1 ([p3 tog, k1], [p3 tog, k1])
round 10: continue in p1, k1 rib
round 11:
*p3 tog, k1, rep from * End p1, k1 (all sizes)
round 12: cut yarn to about 12" long, thread through
yarn needle, run through remaining sts on needles twice, draw them together, run yarn to inside, knot off and weave in end. Weave in beginning end and any other ends in hat. Wash, block lightly without flattening stitches, and wear or donate.